Wednesday 30 May 2012
Yann Casparini I am a hotel manager. With a hundred of contemporary hotel managers we created this travel magazine to share our selection of addresses and tips.
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>> Contributeurs >> Shelley Seale >> Casa Susegad Loutolim, Goa, India

Casa Susegad Loutolim, Goa, India

Casa Susegad is a restored colonial mansion house in the village of Loutolim in South Goa. Set in one and a half acres of grounds, this lovely idyll is surrounded by forest and jungle in a quiet corner of a Goan village. Casa Susegad attains the perfect balance between as much relaxing alone time as you want, and interaction with other guests and village neighbors or short treks to nearby activities. But more than that, the incredible architecture and furnishings of this amazing 400-year old mansion – and the warm hospitality of the hosts – make this a getaway in beautiful coastal Goa, India like no other.

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Life continues around Casa Susegad as it has for decades, unspoiled by the trappings and distractions of mass tourism. This heritage guest house offers the perfect place to relax; with only 4 guest rooms, proprietors Norman and Carol Steen offer a very individual service to each of their guests.

The restoration was a labor of love for the Steens, who retained elements such as teak ceiling beams and the 400-year-old mosaic tile floors which are amazing in their intricacy. Each aspect of the home is intentional, from the gorgeous antique furniture brought from Rajasthan to the unobtrusive yet pampering staff who are like members of the family. Each room has its own color theme and is comfortable and inviting, but the whole house is at guests’ disposal. Cozy up in a cushioned corner seating area with a good book, lounge by the inviting pool, or stroll the beautifully landscaped grounds to the top of the ridge behind the house, from which the perfect sunset can be witnessed.

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Rooms
Each of the four rooms is spacious and well-appointed with antique Indian furniture, deep-sprung mattress and en-suite bathroom. The rooms are each named after semi-precious stones which are found in the decorative floor borders, and a color scheme reflecting the stone. Gorgeous hand-sewn patchwork quilts matching each color scheme cover the beds. Each room opens up to its own terrace area with a table where breakfast or tea may be taken.

Food
The four-course dinners at Casa Susegad are not to be missed. Food is a fusion of Goan cuisine and imaginative continental dishes. Carol Steen often starts her day at the local market, and has worked painstakingly with her wonderful staff to prepare traditional local dishes as well as train them in her own recipes. Everything is organic and prepared in the well-equipped, large kitchen or over a traditional wood fire. You will never have the same dish twice; ask Carol about the Goan chicken or the incredible fish wrapped in a banana leaf. They will also create a meal just for you if you tell her what you fancy. Your hosts will happily lead you on a tour of the kitchen and garden, pulling samples of the many fruits they grow right off the trees or a bite out of something cooking on the stove for you to try.

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Lunch is also available for guests, and is usually homemade soups with fresh salads or sandwiches. Breakfast is served on each room’s terraces, and tea is always offered in the afternoons. Local neighbors often join guests and hosts for meals, and after a day or two you will feel part of the charming village. Any meal can be taken in the sumptuous formal dining room, al fresco on the terrace, in the lounge in front of a movie, or in the guest’s own room. Refreshments including beer, wine, juice and soft drinks are available in the communal kitchen on an honor system basis – guests simply help themselves at any time, and write down what they took on a tally sheet.

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Environmental

Casa Susegad uses local staff that live onsite and are part of the family. Most food is from the garden or local market, and all is fresh and organic. The owners plan to become self sufficient in the production of all their own organically grown vegetables and salad stuffs. Biodegradable waste is used for either feeding neighbours’ pigs or our own compost. Metal and glass items are stored for re-cycling with collections being made regularly by those who have made such recycling their primary business. They do not use any water bottles but rather filter all their own water, and use solar tanks for hot water heating. All ‘grey’ water (from showers and sinks) is collected in underground tanks and used to water the gardens, with an aim to waste as little precious water as possible.

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Keep in mind
The beach is a 20-minute drive away, although there is a lovely private pool with large, comfortable sunbeds.  No restaurants or nightlife are within walking distance or nearby.  Also, be aware that there are six dogs and several cats on the property, so if you are not keen on animals it might not fit your style.

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