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Montreal, my first love by Karine Paradis

• 20 Oct, 2009 • Catégorie: City in sight

By Karine Paradis, contributor

Montreal is in the top 10 places to see before you die for eager travelers seaking new lands to explore. On the island of Montreal, once face to face with its main bridges spanning the St. Lawrence River, its shadows and lights dancing on the facades of skyscrapers, the air having the taste of the four distinct seasons and its Montrealers, smiling and coffee in the hand, difficult to pack and come back to your country. Bubbling with vitality in summer and winter, the major city babbles with the crackling of the festivals, which radiate its wonders on the global cultural scene.

gratte-ciels

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Impossible to be bored and stay in place in this great city, because everything seems programmed into seduction mode, open-heart invotation to discover a world based on diversity. Wander through the colorful streets of the gay district and the trendy terraces of Crescent Street, Ste-Catherine and St-Denis. Soak up the history and soul of many neighborhoods and small countries that shape the unique spirit of Montreal. Some say we are never at a loss of words, others that we have a very colorful language, anyway, our language makes us proud and we cherish it. In the aftermath, English as another major language and dozens of other languages in addition to the majestic and multicultural Montreal.

affiche-zilon-quartier-gay

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

When traveling to Montreal, persons from the suburbs who are used to get from point A to point B in no time have an ulcer, paralyzed in a traffic jam for an infinite time. Not having really a good time to drive in Montreal, because when there is no traffic, there are countless repairs, public transport can make us sing a loud hallelujah. The city has an extensive underground network of subways and a pedestrian network of more than thirty miles. Just recently, new ones have appeared in the Montreal landscape, public bike system: Bixi, enough to make the city greener.

bixi

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Hungry?
The Quebec cuisine includes some tall tale names (Chinese pie, poutine, unemployed pudding, beaver tail, sister farts), but despite this aspect that seems at first repulsive, it reveals a rich and varied cuisine because of the rich terroir and the various regional specialties. Montreal is famous for its international flavor restaurants but if you want to try the Montreal-Quebec cuisine, you must turn to families and get yourself invited into the home of a friend. Thus, he can cook a traditional dish which is not Asian at all, Chinese pâté: a layered dish with ground beef, corn on the cob cream and mashed potatoes, baked in the oven (strange to read, but very good!). When cool weather will tip its nose with the fall, the boiled (beef cut in cubes, garden vegetables, beef broth and spices) will be perfectly what you need to soothe your soul and “belly”. If he invites you into his family during the celebrations of the holidays, you will keep an unforgettable memory of the pies (those of Lac Saint-Jean are particularly renowned, consisting of different meats, potatoes, mixed vegetables, all in a paste) , chicken pies and sugar pies served at dessert. At all times of the year, it will accompany you to taste the traditional poutine (fries, gravy barbecue sauce and cheese curds) in a fast-food restaurant, or even a famous smoked meat at Schwartz’s.

resto_schwartzs

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Culinary S.O.S
When the routine is at full speed, I like to sit back and relax with a mokaccino and a big cake “Réodelight” (a creamy mixture of chocolate and cream, decorated with a famous Oreo cookie to lick your lip) from Café Kilo. This coffee shop will quickly become your favorite spot with the retro-chic decor, the red and electric blue walls, the big comfortable booths if you are in group, the clients and the eclectic waiters, huge healthy sandwiches and ten choices of cakes to satisfy every taste buds. You have to go! When my batteries are flat, the Café Nomad Station is a true adrenaline shot with touch screens on the walls that show videos of the city of Montreal, but also from around the globe. The white tables and stores turn into a projection surface, the aroma of organic espressos tickle your nose and your mind escapes to a daring escape.

cafe_resto_kilo

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

During summer, you can find me on one of the two-floor terraces of the restaurant Café Européen, sipping a home-made sangria with friends, eating fajitas, spicy Thai chicken with linguine or a club sandwich. When the weather is covered, we move  inside in a special place: a cherry red wagon train bringing us each time to a different culinary adventure. For a meal worthy of the finest restaurants the Italian restaurant Casa Napoli, true institution in the neighborhood of Little Italy, is to discover with the famiglia for its fine food: pasta, veal, fish, seafood and of course, home-made pizza with soft crust according to the secrets of the Chef. At the restaurant Nuances du Casino de Montreal, access is restricted to above 18 year-old persons and a business casual is required. Because of the freshness and quality of the products in its modern French kitchen, the restaurant has been winning for nine years the Five Diamond Award from the exclusive list of hotels and restaurants recommended by the Canadian (CAA) and American (AAA) associations. Finally, the charm of Portuguese cuisine can be found all under one roof at the Ferreira Café. Let yourself be tempted by the classics that made the reputation of the house, cod fillet, grilled octopus, sardine terrine, rack of lamb with olive crust accompanied by the famous wine Barca Velha 1991.

cafe-europeen

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Tonight we dance… and drink!
Where hype Montrealers party once the weekend comes? Under the influence of big clubs in London, Berlin, San Francisco and Miami, the Opera Club is the place where jet-setters must be, the biggest nightclub in Montreal. The social elite and the popular DJs from the world meet there in an elegant, sensual and sophisticated atmosphere. In summer, at the 737 clubbers get crazy while listening to the best hits on the open terrace of one of the tallest buildings in the city. Otherwise, they are confined indoors, where huge windows reveal the sparkling lights of the nightlife. If you prefer a relaxing drink and want to have a drink with your friends, the Baldwin Barmacie, a former pharmacy turned into a lounge bar is known for its great variety of cocktails and martinis, enough to make Agent 007 jalous! To meet-up with the top-brass of Montreal, Bily Kun Bar is a must-go for residents of the Plateau Mont-Royal. Do not be swayed by the ostrich heads that adorn the walls of the bar, they break the ice in less than two in a romantic head-to-face!

farine-five-roses

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

The holly sleep
Surrendering in the arms of Morpheus is not always easy when one is away from his cozy bed. But what about a place where refined quilts are in goose feather, Egyptian cotton sheets and where the cream of the cream is not only available to celebrities who walk in the area regularly but is a standard for all visitors? At the heart of the Old Montreal, Hotel The St-James overlooks the St-Jacques street and is born from the restoration of the historic building of the Merchant’s Bank from 1870. Known for its sleek and elegant lines and the avant-garde style, it is also one of the only city to mingle with the European style. Antiques and exquisite pieces gathered from around the world are enthroned in the rooms and suites. Do not leave without having enjoyed the modern and innovative cuisine of the hotel restaurant, the XO, which received the highest rating by The Gazette in 2009.

saint-james

Camped at the foot of the majestic Notre-Dame, the boutique hotel The Saint-Sulpice evokes a resort in urban land and releases bubbling energy typical of the old neighborhoods of the city in its chic, casual and timeless ambiance. Some loft-suites have terraces with views through windows and French doors on the sunny garden courtyard and the historic streets of the area. Other suites offer a fireplace and a balcony (or terrace), the product line Eco Spa by Fruits & Passion and amenities from the French perfume Annick Gouta.

saint-sulpice

For travelers and trendy business people, the boutique hotel The Germain offers a new vision to reconcile work and pleasure, revealing a unique development concept. Using maximum the daylight and increasing the vitality of downtown Montreal, you’ll have time to work in your room, without believing that you’re still stuck in the office. The rooms and loft-type suites fuse a luxury decor and accessories with the arrangement of textures, natural earthy tones mixed with dark wood, glass and mirrors.

germain

At the heart of the bourgeois area Golden Square Mile, close to McGill University, Museum of Fine Arts, several art galleries and magnificent Victorian residences, the glass hotel Sofitel Montreal Golden Mile has a breathtaking panorama. Dressed with contemporary art pieces, the mysterious atmosphere of the rooms is accentuated with the soft lighting, the sober colors and the discreet marble bathroom with a large glass shower. The multicolored carpet inspired by Fernand Léger and the staircase that brighten the lobby is very much appreciated.

sofitel-montreal

Conquered by the colors
The colors of autumn make it a real dream. According to age, vivid memories diverge: children running on a carpet of bruised leaves, the frenzy of collecting candy at Halloween, pick up apples, the chilly weather that drives us to stay inside to watch a good movie. The fall is all that and much more!

couleurs-automnales

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Those who love like me the feast of the color orange will discover with lots of happiness the display of pumpkins decorated by the public in the Great Exhibition at the Greenhouse, during the Great Pumpkin Ball. It’s always a delight for the eyes to see how people use of originality to give life to their gourd (with the logo of the Montreal Canadians, Michael Jackson’s hit Thriller dance, Shrek and Fiona and Jack, a character from Tim Burton – see photo). Prolong the pleasure to the Chinese Garden for the event Magic Lantern. Such an explosion of light in the night, thousands of lanterns revealing different facets of Asian culture. Drawn in Montreal, then performed in Shanghai in the traditional way of Chinese tradition, the lanterns make you crave for travel to slanted eye countries. For $5 (3.25€), bring a mini electric lantern to home as a souvenir.

bal-des-citrouilles

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

The rainy autumn evenings are perfect to slip away to see the best films in the run of the World Film Festival (WFF), New Cinema Festival (NCF) in Montreal and Image + Nation. The WFF promotes cultural diversity and understanding between people and promote worldwide movies; the NCF encourages originality, the emergence of independant movies and digital creation; Image + Nation offers the best gay and lesbian movies in the world. Movie lovers will get their money’s worth and we might meet at one of the performances!

Oh look how much snow it snowed!
What would winter be without snow? Every year, Montreal benefits from a generous layer of powder. While the cranky ones complain about the chilly weather, others are waiting for the moment of the first snow to strap on their snowshoes, skis and boards. And who says snow, says celebrations, pink cheeks and of course, hot chocolate with marshmallows.

mont_royal_et_oratoire_st_joseph

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

If you still feel queasy from the trip and you have the impression that the jet lag makes you swim in a migraine, a breath of fresh air and sunshine on the Mount Royal will present your ideas in the right place. Look stir the city from the top of the mountain, on the panoramic view point. Follow the designated trails by doing cross country skiing or venture yourself on the more dangerous roads for a healthy walk. Sledge with my body or have a romantic skate on the Beaver Lake. Far from the hubbub of the city, Mount Royal will get you closer to nature and make you realize, at a time when the “ready-to-throw” seems to want to crush us, purity and richness of places surround us. Indeed, on one side of the mount you can see the huge dome of St. Joseph Oratory, a prominent place of pilgrimage.

belvedere_mont_royal

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

The best cure against the winter blues? Celebration! For ten years, the Montreal High Light Festival sets alight the city in the coming out of its lethargy by focusing on performing arts, engineering, lighting and tableware. The Nuit Blanche (Sleepless) in Montreal and the Celebration of Lights, two major events, illuminating the cold season and offer a range of activities, free musical performances, sledge hockey, maple takes on the snow, acrobatic shows, urban dance, games of skill … all well wrapped up! Moreover, for families who love outdoor activities, the Snow Celebration at Jean-Drapeau Park is another great way to celebrate winter.

Stuck for inspiration for finding the gift that will make your loved one smile for Christmas? The Exhibition of Quebec Crafts is full of original handmade things (leather bracelets, paintings, blown glass, jewelry, custom clothing, scented candles), all designed by a craftsman! It’s always a pleasure to browse here and there in search of rare gems that will make people happy!

noel-eternel

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Real phenomenon that has gathered the crowd and scored the heart of French-Canadians: hockey, national sport of Quebec, and its legends are a landmark for those who have the chance to attend a live game at the Bell Center. On the program, the Montreal Canadian: a male evening sweating the testosterone! For a meal worthy champions, as the code of the perfect supporter (here you do not opt for fine food, but for a ritual winner), two hot dogs and a large Molson beer to order. Ah yes! and the most important in a sports game, encourage and sing “Go Habs Go” ( “Habitant” is one of the nice nicknames for the Montreal Hockey Club).

Sugaring
Buds are blooming, birds are singing, the first shoots are making their way through the snow melting under the sun and there is no doubt, spring is here! When the sap rises and the maple sap is flowing, sugar shacks open their doors for maple syrup tastings. Be at the forefront of a typical Quebec brunch with ham, sausages, potatoes, bines (beans with bacon), ears of crunches (grilled salted pork) and mostly pancake maple syrup. A popular spring tradition to mark in your calendars! However, if you do not have the chance to visit a sugar bush, as they are located on the outskirts of Montreal, you can still get the maple products in the flea markets of the city (Jean-Talon Market and Atwater) or in specialty shops like The Maple Delights in Old Montreal.

marche-atwater

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Moreover, in Old Montreal, it’s forbidden to watch your feet while walking! Having kept the architecture of the buildings from the past, buildings, paved streets and pedestrian streets seem frozen in time. The carriage tours probably add an old-time stamp from our great-grandparents. For wonderful discoveries, walk along the streets stuffed with terraces to the shop Tant Qu’il y Aura Des Fleurs facing the Bonsecours Market. Make an inspired detour by the Artist Street where are displayed several works (photography, paintings, jewelry) unpretentiously. Visit the impressive Basilica of Notre-Dame, a masterpiece of neo-Gothic style church that attracts many faithful. If you are craving for food a myriad of restaurants (Nelson Garden, Spaghetti Factory, The Arrival) is waiting to pamper you and to finish the evening in style, enjoy a beaver tail on the docks of the old port, the look wandering to the sea.

caleche-vieux-port

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

All our senses are in alert, spring is the ideal time to absorb like a sponge, knowledge while exploring museums. In order to see contemporary art from a new angle on the first Friday evening of the month at the Musuem of Contemporary Art in Montréal, a party atmosphere with bar service called The Nocturnes offers a live musical performance from 5 to 9, with visits of the showrooms. For those who like to plunge into the heart of history and the rich archaeological heritage of Montreal, Pointe-à-Callière, the Museum of Archeology and History was made for you. Finally, the Museum of Fine Arts will allow you an overview of Canadian and international art.

When the cold’s away, the mice will play
If you can’t keep your money with you, Montreal in summer is for you! The city is invaded by a ton of festivals, performances and exhibitions and there is no other choice for city dwellers than be overwhelmed by the wave of art and music, free of charge! Painful, right?

quartier-des-spectacles

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Each summer, out of the lineup of the Francofolies, my schedule is filled with lightning speed of annotations and circles around important dates so I do not miss the performances of new artists and established ones. Alfa Rococo, Alexandre Désilets, Coeur de Pirate, Pierre Lapointe, Ariane Moffatt, Eric Lapointe … candies for ears! The biggest names in the jazz world have been meeting in Montreal since the inception of the International Jazz Festival in Montreal in 1980 (Ray Charles, Stevie Wonder, Norah Jones, Leonard Cohen) and the best remains to come! Street performers, booths, games and zany situations, hilariously, cramps caused by the laughter of the tributary at Just for Laughs Festival, but it is mainly a jokes time to spend with family or friends!

place_des_arts

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Set up on the Jacques-Cartier bridge (closed for the occasion), every Saturday for 30 minutes get a load of the sky and fireworks at the fireworks competition in magnitude to the International Fireworks Competition Quebec. If you want to be at the forefront of the action, you can also buy a ticket for a seat at La Ronde.

pont-jacques-cartier

Photo credit: Karine Paradis

Where to eat?

Schwartz’s
3895, boul. Saint-Laurent
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2W 1X9
T.: +1.(514).842.4813
F.: +1.(514).842.0800
Café Kilo
1495, rue Sainte-Catherine Est
Montreal, Québec, Canada
H2L 2H9
T.: +1.(514).596.3933
or
1254, rue Saint-Denis
Montreal, Québec, Canada
H2X 3J6
T.: +1.(514).906.0649‎
Nomad Station
407, rue McGill, local 105
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 2G3
T.: +1.(514).844.7979
Café Européen
1560, rue Ste-Catherine Est
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2L 2J2
T.: +1.(514).523.7773‎
Casa Napoli
6728, boul. St-Laurent (coin St-Zotique)
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2S 3C7
T.: +1.(514).274.4351
F.: +1.(514).274.3602
Nuance
1, avenue du Casino (sur l’Île Notre-Dame, pavillon de la France)
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3C 4W7
T.: +1.(514).392.2708
Ferreira Café
1446, rue Peel
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3A 1S8
T.: +1.(514).848.0988
Nelson’s Garden
407, Place Jacques-Cartier
Montreal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 3B1
T.: +1.(514).861.5731
L’Usine de Spaghetti
273, rue St-Paul Est (coin Marché-Bonsecours)
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 1H1
T.: +1.(514).866.0963

Where to party?

Opera Club
32, Ste-Catherine Ouest
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2X 3V4
T.: +1.(514).842.2836
F.: +1.(514).396.2215
737
1, Place Ville-Marie, Niveau PH2, suite 4340
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3B 5E4
T.: +1.(514).397.0737
F.: +1.(514).397.0048
Baldwin Barmacie
115, avenue Laurier Ouest
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2T 2N6
T.: +1.(514).276.4282
Bily Kun
354, Mont-Royal Est
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2T 1P9
T.: +1.(514).845.5392

Where to slepp?

The St-James
355, rue St-Jacques
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 1N9
T.: +1.(514).841.3111
F.: +1.(514).841.1232
The Saint-Sulpice
414, rue St-Sulpice
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 2V5
T.: +1.877.SULPICE
The Germain
2050, rue Mansfield
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3A 1Y9
T.: +1.877 333.2050
F.: +1.(514).849.1437
Sofitel Montreal Golden Mile
1155, rue Sherbrooke Ouest
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3A 2N3
T.: +1.(514).285.9000
F.: +1.(514).289.1155

What to do?

The Great Pumpkin Ball / Magic Lanterns
Jardin Botanique de Montréal
4101 Sherbrooke Est
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H1X 2B2
T.: +1.(514).872.1400
St-Joseph Oratory
3800, chemin Queen Mary
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3V 1H6
T.: +1.(514).733.8211
F.: +1.(514).733.9735
Salon des métiers d’art
800, rue de la Gauchetière Ouest
Place Bonaventure, hall d’exposition ouest
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H5A 1K6
Bell Center
1260, rue de la Gauchetiere Ouest
Montreal, Québec, Canada
H3B 5E8
T.: +1.(514).932.2582
Tant qu’il y aura des fleurs
347, rue Saint-Paul Est
Montreal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 1H3
T.: +1.(514).395.9079
Basilique Notre-Dame
110, rue Notre-Dame Ouest
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 1T2
T.: +1.(514).842.2925
Museum of Modern Art Of Montreal
185, rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest
Montreal, Québec, Canada
H2X 3X5
T.: +1.
Itinéraire
(514).847.6226
Museum of Archeology and History of Montreal Pointe-à-Callière
350, Place Royale
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 3Y5‎
T.: +1.(514).872.9150‎
Museum of Fine Arts Montreal
1380, rue Sherbrooke Ouest
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3G 1J5
T.: +1.(514).285.2000
The Ronde
22, Chemin Macdonald
Île Sainte-Hélène
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H3C 6A3
The Maple Delights
84, rue St-Paul Est
Montréal, Québec, Canada
H2Y 1G6
T.: +1.888.550.3456
F.: +1.(514).765.8872
Montreal Hight Light Festival Old-Montreal
Jean-Drapeau Park Francofolies de Montreal
Just for Laughs Festival Jean-Talon Market and Atwater
International Jazz Festival In Montréal International Fireworks Competition Québec
World Film Festival New Cinema Festival
Image+Nation Mount-Royal
Montreal Canadians
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